How To Make 3d Files For Printing

5 Mistakes to Avoid When Designing a 3D Model for 3D Printing

1. Making Files For 3d Printers
2. How To Create 3d Printer Files

The course will uncover the core processes behind 3D printing and reveal one of the most powerful capabilities of the 3D printing revolution—that it's accessible to anyone, and that companies like Shapeways make the process easier than ever through online 3D printing. The course will cover: Part 1: Intro to 3D Modeling and 3D Printing. In this type of 3D printing, the material, usually ABS or PLA plastic, is melted down by the printer head and extruded onto the printer bed, similar to how ink is deposited onto a page on a paper printer. The extruder head of the printer lays down material layer by layer to build. Ignoring Material Guidelines. Each and every printing material is different. Materials can be brittle.

Check out our list of the best sites to download free STL files and 3D printer models, 3D printer files, and 3D printing designs in other file formats.

We know that modeling for 3D printing can be confusing: in 3D modeling, as in 3D printing, there is no one size fits all approach. We all use different software, print in different materials, and not only use different printers but also different printing technologies. So it's perfectly normal to feel lost and it can sometimes seem difficult to design a perfect 3D model for 3D printing.

That's why we've put together the ultimate list of mistakes to avoid when turning a 3D model into a 3D print.

1. Ignoring Material Guidelines

Each and every printing material is different. Materials can be brittle or strong, flexible or solid, smooth or rough, heavy or light, and so on. This also means that an object should ideally be designed for a specific material. For example, if you know that you want to print your 3D model in Steel, there will be specific material-related design recommendations that you need to take into account such as supporting overhanging parts, strengthening elements that are sticking out, rounding off corners, etc.

The choice of your printing material simply pre-determines some of the basic design guidelines that you need to stick to.

Each 3D printing material is different. Make sure to read the design guide for the material of your choice.

Making Files For 3d Printers

Solution: Sticking to the design rules of your material is essential for a successful print. Ideally, you should read the design guides before you start to work on your model. You can find the design guides for all of our materials here. Additionally, you can compare several materials directly on our comparison site.

We also encourage you to browse through our shop items (you can set a filter for specific materials there) to get a better understanding of what designs other artists have created in what materials.

2. Ignoring Printing Technology

https://softwaresys.medium.com/chronosync-4-2-1-ubk-download-free-94642f259aad. It's not only the basic chemical characteristics of our printing materials that are different, but also the technologies that are used for printing each of these materials.

How to charge apple keyboard. The best example of this is interlocking parts; in materials like ABS, Polyamide, Alumide, or Rubber-like you can print interlocking parts, while in others like Gold, Silver, Bronze, or Resin this is not possible. The reason behind this is not the material itself, but the technology that is used for printing each of these materials.

For ABS we use Fused Deposition Modeling (filament-based) with an extra nozzle and material for support, for Polyamide, Alumide, and Polypropylene we use Laser Sintering (powder-based), for precious metals we use lost wax casting (based on a 3D print in wax and a mold), and for the Resins we use Stereolithography (liquid polymer-based).

This might sound confusing but the important thing to keep in mind is the following: we cannot assume that Stainless Steel and Silver will have similar requirements simply because they are both metals. They are printed using different technologies and thus some design features will differ. However, materials that use the same technology such as Gold, Silver, Bronze, and Brass (lost wax casting) are more likely to share similar design requirements.

Solution: Once again, our materials website holds all the answers. Checking our material pages before you start designing is always key. Also, keep in mind that with the use of different printers and printing technologies, the maximum printing sizes differ. You can find an overview of these here.

3. Ignoring Wall Thickness

Even though you can find information about the wall thickness in the guidelines that were already mentioned, it's worth stressing this point again.

Problems linked to wall thickness are by far the most common reasons why some 3D models are not printable. In some cases, wall thickness is too thin. Walls that are too thin make small parts on the model unable to be printed or very fragile and could break off easily. In other cases, walls that are too thick generate too much internal stress and could cause the item to crack or even break.

Getting the right wall thickness is crucial for a successful print.

Solution: First, read our general blog post about getting the perfect wall thickness for your 3D model. Then, head over to the design guide for the material of your choice and stick to the values mentioned there.

4. Ignoring File Resolution

Read the design guides? Know your material? Wall thickness ok?

Perfect, but now there is another thing to consider: file resolution.

For 3D printing, the most common file format is STL (which stands for standard triangle language), which means that your design will be translated into triangles in a 3D space. Most 3D modeling software has the option to export your designs to an STL file and set the desired resolution.

Low-resolution STL file: It's important to be aware that a poor-quality export will never allow us to provide you with a good print. Low-resolution means that the triangles in your STL file are big and the surface of your print will not be smooth. It will lead to a somewhat 'pixelated' print.

Very high-resolution STL file: A file with a resolution that is too high will make your file too big and sometimes impossible for us to handle. It might also contain an extreme level of detail that the 3D printers simply cannot print. That's why we ask you to stay below a file size of 100 MB when uploading your model to our website.

Solution: In most 3D modeling software, when exporting a file you will be asked to define the tolerance for the export. This tolerance is defined as the maximum distance between the original shape and the STL mesh you are exporting. We advise choosing 0.01 mm for a good export.

Here's a visual representation of different file resolutions from extremely high (left) to quite low (right):

Choosing the right resolution for your file is important to ensure a good quality print.

Exporting with a tolerance smaller than 0.01 mm does not make sense because the 3D printers cannot print at this level of detail. When exporting with a tolerance larger than 0.01 mm, triangles might become visible in the 3D print. You can read more about this in our blog post about file resolution where we also point out the 40 other 3D files that we support. If your file exceeds 100 MB we can provide an offline quote if you send a zipped file via a file transfer service to contact@i.materialise.com.

5. Ignoring Software Guidelines

Our community uses many different 3D modeling software packages. Some were designed for creating 3D prints, others are mostly used by 3D artists and their designs will require additional editing before they can offer a printable 3D model. For example, applying a wall thickness is automatic in some programs, while you must manually set it in others.

Even if you use a beginner-friendly software that was developed for the sole purpose of 3D Printing (e.g. Tinkercad), you might still have a difficult time creating a hollow model. In this case, free software Meshmixer can help.

Different software, different file preparation procedures: Tinkercad (left) and Blender (right).

If you use a software like Blender (used for 3D graphics and animations), SketchUp (popular with architects and scale modelers), or ZBrush (sculpting software for 3D artists), some further file preparation will need to be done. Depending on which software you are using, shells may need to be joined together, models may need to be made watertight, wall thicknesses may need to be applied, and printing sizes may need to be set. Once again, each and every software is different.

Solution: Read the software guidelines for turning a model into a 3D print. If you cannot find them on the official software websites, 'google' for tutorials. If you reach the limits of your 3D modeling software, open your 3D model in Meshmixer for some basic 3D printing preparation tools.

Summary: How to 3D Model for Printing

Let's take a breath. And don't worry; things sound more difficult than they are. Just make sure to know your software and material of choice well. If you are struggling to learn how to 3D model you can always find a lot of resources and tutorial videos online. You can also get in touch with professional 3D designers who will be able to help you via our 3D modeling service.

If you designed a 3D model for printing, why not print it with our online 3D printing service? It's easy, fast, and efficient. When uploading a model to our website we will double-check your design manually. If there are mistakes or if parts of your object could break, we will inform you about this and tell you what went wrong. If you want to learn some other tricks, visit our blog posts about how to create stunning Multicolor + and Silver prints, how to set the perfect wall thickness, and how to choose the right file resolution.

How To Create 3d Printer Files

Featured image: Spire Sculpture in Polyamide (SLS) by Charles-Eric Gogny

• Discovering FreeCAD
  • Installing
  • The FreeCAD interface
  • Navigating in the 3D view
• Working with FreeCAD
  • Preparing models for 3D printing
  • Using spreadsheets
• Python scripting
  • A gentle introduction

One of the main uses of FreeCAD is to produce real-world objects. These can be designed in FreeCAD, and then made real in different ways, such as communicated to other people who will then build them, or, more and more frequently, sent directly to a 3D printer or a CNC mill. This chapter will show you how to get your models ready to send to these machines.

If you have been cautious while modeling, most of the difficulty you might encounter when printing your model in 3D has already been avoided. This involves basically:

• Making sure that your 3D objects are solid. Real-world objects are solid, the 3D model must be solid too. We saw in earlier chapters that FreeCAD helps you a lot in that regard, and that the PartDesign Workbench will notify you if you do an operation that prevents your model to stay solid. The Part Workbench also contains a Check Geometry tool that is handy to check further for possible defects.
• Making sure about the dimensions of your objects. One millimeter will be one millimeter in real-life. Every dimension matters.
• Controlling the degradation. No 3D printing or CNC milling system can take FreeCAD files directly. Most of them will only understand a machine language called G-Code. G-code has dozens of different dialects, each machine or vendor usually has its own. The conversion of your models into G-Code can be easy and automatic, but you can also do it manually, with total control over the output. In any case, some loss of quality of your model will unavoidably occur during the process. When printing in 3D, you must always make sure this loss of quality stays below your minimum requirements.

Below, we will assume that the first two criteria are met, and that by now you are able to produce solid objects with correct dimensions. We will now see how to address the third point.

Exporting to slicers

This is the technique most commonly used for 3D printing. The 3D object is exported to another program (the slicer) which will generate the G-code from the object, by slicing it into thin layers (hence the name), which will reproduce the movements that the 3D printer will do. Since many of those printers are home-built, there are often small differences from one to the other. These programs usually offer advanced configuration possibilities that allow you to tailor the output exactly for the features of your 3D printer.

Actual 3D printing, however, is too vast a subject for this manual. But we will see how to export and use these slicers to check that the output is correct.

Converting objects to meshes

None of the slicers will, at this time, directly take the solid geometry as we produce in FreeCAD. So we will need to convert any object we want to 3D print into a mesh first, that the slicer can open. Fortunately, as much as converting a mesh to a solid is a complicated operation, the contrary, converting a solid to a mesh, is very straightforward. All we need to be careful about, is that it is here that the degradation we mentioned above will occur. We need to check that the degradation stays within acceptable limits.

All the mesh handling, in FreeCAD, is done by another specific workbench, the Mesh Workbench. This workbench contains, in addition to the most important tools that convert between Part and Mesh objects, several utilities meant to analyze and repair meshes. Although working with meshes is not the focus of FreeCAD, when working with 3D modeling, you often need to deal with mesh objects, since their use is very widespread among other applications. This workbench allows you to handle them fully in FreeCAD.

• Let's convert one of the objects we modelled in the previous chapters, such as the lego piece (which can be downloaded from the end of the previous chapter).
• Open the FreeCAD file containing the lego piece.
• Switch to the Mesh Workbench
• Select the lego brick
• Select menu Meshes -> Create Mesh from Shape
• A task panel will open with several options. Some additional meshing algorithms (Mefisto or Netgen) might not be available, depending on how your version of FreeCAD was compiled. The Standard meshing algorithm will always be present. It offers less possibilities than the two others, but is totally sufficient for small objects that fit into the maximum print size of a 3D printer.

• Select the Standard mesher, and leave the deviation value to the default value of 0.10. Press Ok.
• A mesh object will be created, exactly on top of our solid object. Either hide the solid, or move one of the objects aside, so you can compare both.
• Change the View -> Display Mode property of the new mesh object to Flat Lines, in order to see how the triangulation occurred.
• If you are not happy, and think that the result is too coarse, you can repeat the operation, lowering the deviation value. In the example below, the left mesh used the default value of 0.10, while the right one uses 0.01:

In most cases, though, the default values will give a satisfying result.

• We can now export our mesh to a mesh format, such as STL, which is currently the most widely used format in 3D printing, by using menu File -> Export and choosing the STL file format.

If you don't own a 3D printer, it is usually very easy to find commercial services that will print and send you the printed objects by mail. Among the famous ones are Shapeways and Sculpteo, but you will usually find many others in your own city. In all major cities, you will nowadays find Fab labs, which are workshops equipped with a range of 3D manufacturing machines, almost always including at least one 3D printer. Fab labs are usually community spaces, that will let you use their machines, for a fee or for free depending on the Fab lab, but also teach you how to use them, and promote other activities around 3D manufacturing.

Using Slic3r

Slic3r is an application that converts STL objects into G-code that can be sent directly to 3D printers. Like FreeCAD, it is free, open source and runs on Windows, Mac OS and Linux. Correctly configuring things for 3D printing is a complicated process, where you must have a good knowledge of your 3D printer, so it is not very useful to generate G-code before actually going to print (your G-code file might not work well on another printer), but it is useful for us anyway, to check that our STL file will be printable without problems.

This is our exported STL file opened in Slic3r. By using the preview tab, and moving the right slider, we can visualize the path that the 3D printer head will follow to construct our object.

Using the Cura addon

Cura is another free and open source slicer application for Windows, Mac and Linux, maintained by the 3D printer maker Ultimaker. Some FreeCAD users have created a Cura Workbench that uses cura internally. The Cura Workbench is available from the FreeCAD addons repository. To use the Cura Workbench, you also need to install Cura itself, which is not included in the workbench.

Once you have installed both Cura and the Cura Workbench, you will be able to use it to produce the G-code file directly from Part objects, without the need to convert them to meshes, and without the need to open an external application. Producing another G-code file from our Lego brick, using the Cura Workbench this time, is done as follows:

• Load the file containing our Lego brick (it can be downloaded at the end of the previous chapter)
• Switch to the Cura Workbench
• Setup the printer space by choosing menu 3D printing -> Create a 3D printer definition. Since we aren't going to print for real, we can leave the settings as they are. The geometry of the printing bed and available space will be shown in the 3D view.
• Move the Lego brick to a suitable location, such as the center of the printing bed. Remember that PartDesign objects cannot be moved directly, so you need either to move its very first sketch (the first rectangle), or to move (and print) a copy, which can be made with the Part -> Create Simple Copy tool. The copy can be moved, for example with Draft -> Move.
• Select the object to be printed, and select menu 3D printing -> Slice with Cura Engine.
• In the task panel that will open, make sure the path to the Cura executable is correctly set. Since we are not going to really print, we can leave all other options as they are. Press Ok. Two files will be generated in the same directory as your FreeCAD file, an STL file and a G-code file.

• The generated G-code can also be re-imported into FreeCAD (using the slic3r preprocessor) for checking.

Generating G-code

FreeCAD also offers more advanced ways to generate G-code directly. This is often much more complicated than using automatic tools as we saw above, but has the advantage to let you fully control the output. This is usually not needed when using 3D printers, but becomes very important when dealing with CNC milling, as the machines are much more complex.

G-code path generation in FreeCAD is done with the Path Workbench. It features tools that generate full machine paths and others that generate only parts of a G-code project, that can then be assembled to form a whole milling operation.

Generating CNC milling paths is another subject that is much too vast to fit in this manual, so we are going to show how to build a simple Path project, without caring much about most of the details of real CNC machining.

• Load the file containing our lego piece, and switch to the Path Workbench.
• Since the final piece doesn't contain anymore a rectangular top face, hide the final lego piece, and show the first cubic pad that we did, which has a rectangular top face.
• Select the top face and press the Profile button.
• Set its Offset property to 1mm.

• Then, let's duplicate this first loop a couple of times, so the tool will carve out the whole block. Select the Profile path, and press the Array button.
• Set the Copies property of the array to 8, and its Offset to -2mm in the Z direction, and move the placement of the array by 2mm in the Z direction, so the cutting will start a bit above the pad, and include the height of the dots too.

• Now we have defined a path that, when followed by the milling machine, will carve a rectangular volume out of a block of material. We now need to carve out the space between the dots, in order to reveal them. Hide the Pad, and show the final piece again, so we can select the face that lies between the dots.
• Select the top face, and press the Pocket Shape button. Set the Offset property to 1mm, and the retraction height to 20mm. That is the height to where the cutter will travel when switching from one loop to another. Otherwise, the cutter might cut right through one of our dots:

• Once again, make an array. Select the Pocket object, and press the Array button. Set the Copies number to 1 and the offset to -2mm in the Z direction. Move the placement of the array by 2mm in the Z direction. Our two operations are now done:

• Now all that is left to do is to join these two operations into one. This can be done with a Path Compound or a Path Job. Since we will need nothing more and will be ready to export already, we will use the job. Press the Job button.
• Set the Use Placements property of the project is to True, because we changed the placement of the arrays, and we want that to be taken into account in the project.
• In the tree view, drag and drop the two arrays into the project. You can reorder the arrays inside the project if needed, by double-clicking it.
• The project can now be exported to G-code, by selecting it, choosing menu File -> Export, selecting the G-code format, and in the pop-up dialog that will open, selecting a post-processing script according to your machine.

There are many applications available to simulate the real cutting, one of them that is also multi-platform and open source, like FreeCAD, is Camotics. How to delete imvu off your computer.

Downloads

• The STL file generated in this exercise: https://github.com/yorikvanhavre/FreeCAD-manual/blob/master/files/lego.stl
• The file generated during this exercise: https://github.com/yorikvanhavre/FreeCAD-manual/blob/master/files/path.FCStd
• The G-code file generated in this exercise: https://github.com/yorikvanhavre/FreeCAD-manual/blob/master/files/lego.gcode

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